Fatehpur Sikri & Chand Baori
India
To travel from Jaipur to Agra we hired a driver for the day, which gave us the opportunity to stop at 2 tourist sites on the way. First up was the 9th century Chand Baori, one of the largest and deepest stepwells in India. The sandstone structure contains a staggering 3,500 steps spread across 13 storeys, forming crisscross patterns that completely captivated us. Although we weren't allowed to go all the way to the bottom, we could descend to a viewpoint approximately halfway down the side. We were glad we had arrived relatively early, as tour group after tour group rolled in across the morning. Despite the crowds, Chand Baori was definitely up there on our list of best stepwells we had seen. Its symmetrical pattern, grand size and cleanliness set it apart from the many dirty, neglected ruins we had encountered elsewhere.
Next door was the compact Harshat Mata Temple, also built in the 9th century, dedicated to the goddess of joy and happiness. It wasn't particularly exciting to look at and didn’t bring about any feelings of joy or happiness for us. After taking a couple of obligatory photos, we located our driver and hit the road again.
Our second stop was Fatehpur Sikri, the capital of the Mughal Empire from 1571-1585. The East India Company also used the city as its headquarters in the 19th century, but now it is a UNESCO World Heritage Site. At 3 km long and 1 km wide, it was a sprawling site that was far too large to explore fully in the short time we were here.
From the moment we arrived we were accosted relentlessly. Tour guides, shuttle buses, souvenirs, help with our shoes, offer of a sari, directional information, beggars, photos (almost daily we were asked by locals to pose for photos with kids or a family) - it was overwhelming. We didn't know who to trust or how much money they were going to try to swindle from us. Even inside the complex we weren't completely free of the madness - if you stood still long enough, someone you’d rather avoid would approach you. It wasn't a relaxing experience.
Built using red sandstone in a blend of Indian, Persian and Islamic styles, the Fatehpur Sikri's appearance was completely different to other sites we had visited. Enormous, empty courtyards were lined with gateways, palaces, pavilions, living quarters and a reflecting pond. The occasional column or wall was carved with intricate patterns, while faded colourful paint could barely be seen on the interiors. Being so expansive the site didn't feel congested at all, which was a pleasant surprise. It was fascinating, taking up much more of our time than we had anticipated.
On the same grounds was the 16th-century Jama Masjid. When it was built, it was the largest mosque in the Mughal Empire. Like the rest of the city, the complex consisted of a mammoth central courtyard with impressive-looking structures running around the exterior. Unlike the first section, however, this area was crammed with locals and tourists alike. One side contained tombs laid into the concrete, while another was dominated by one of the largest gateways in the world (a whopping 54 metres tall). In the main prayer hall, where only one man was praying, a series of archways led down a long hallway with beautifully decorated surfaces. It was undoutedly stunning, but I think I would have appreciated it more without the crowds.
