Pumalin Douglas Tompkins
National Park
Chile
Pumalin Douglas Tompkins National Park came into being thanks to the conservation efforts of the founder of The North Face, Douglas Tompkins. It is one of the only parks in Chile where all the hikes are free, which we were very grateful for. We covered almost every square inch of the park.
Yelcho Glacier
Distance: 6.4 km
Hiking Time: 1:20 hr
Ascent: 115 m
On the drive from Puyuhuapi to Chaiten we stopped at Yelcho Glacier, which is technically just outside the national park but is close enough to include it in this section. The trail was short and easy to follow, with little elevation gain. It commenced on a boardwalk before moving onto dirt, with a bunch of fallen trees crisscrossing the path to add some variety. There were a couple of viewpoints along the way but the final one was by far the best, giving an uninterrupted view of the glacier glistening in the sun. After the disappointment of the Hanging Glacier yesterday, and several days of gloomy weather, it was a welcome surprise to have blue skies and no rain.
Amarillo Glacier
Distance: 26.5 km
Hiking Time: 6.19 hr
Ascent: 625 m
The weather was perfect again the next morning for our trek to Amarillo Glacier, sitting on the slopes of the Michinmahuida Volcano. However, when we spoke to the park ranger at the entrance, she told us the trail was closed until January. Instead, she offered us a shorter loop to a mirador of the glacier, which on the map was nowhere near the ice. Disappointed, we signed our names on the check-in sheet and drove into the park.
From a car park beside a campsite, we commenced on a gravel road that formed part of the mirador loop, climbing up a steep hill that seemed to last an eternity. At the 2 km mark we reached an intersection. Rather than turning up the trail that would take us to the suggested lookout, we continued on the road to the next campsite. At this point there was no one around and nothing to stop us from proceeding onto the path that led to the glacier. With one eye continually keeping watch for anyone official-looking , we decided to follow the trail markers to see how far we could get.
After meandering through a pretty forest, we found ourselves on a wide, flat volcanic plain, the surface covered in black volcanic rocks mixed with white ash-like sand. We could immediately see the glacier ahead, a sight that would stay with us nearly the entire time. For a while we were surrounded by head-high bushes, but they eventually petered out to leave a vast expanse of nothingness.
It didn't take long to reach our first stream crossing, which was followed by muddy bogs then flooded trail. It was impossible to stay dry or clean. Every now and then a fallen tree required scrambling over, and several sections were almost completely overgrown. We wondered if this was the reason why the trail was closed (it wasn’t going to be enough to stop us). Luckily there were very helpful red posts lining the path, guiding our way across the valley, which we did our best to lose at times.
At roughly the halfway mark the route led up into a forest on the side of a mountain. This part clearly hadn't been cleared in a long while, and we spent a good chunk of time bent over double while scrambling up and down the short climbs. It was kind of fun in the end and broke up the monotony of the flatness.
Back on the lava field we inched closer and closer to the glacier, its entire face slowly being revealed. Finally, we arrived at a sign indicating we had reached the end of the trail, close to the foot of the glacier. The top half was pristine ice blue but the lower half was dirty grey, and sadly most of what we could see from our vantage point was this bottom section. The views further away had been more impressive, letting us observe more of the attractive top portion. We stopped and ate lunch, listening to the river rushing by below us and swatting away the flies that had followed us for the last hour or so.
On the return leg we were aided by a very slight downhill but hindered by an increasing headwind. There was still no one around at the end, so we avoided any consequences for entering the forbidden trail. None of the route seemed dangerous at all so we weren't sure why it was closed, but we were glad we ignored the advice and had the opportunity to observe the glacier up close.
Chaiten Volcano
Distance: 5 km
Hiking Time: 1:43 hr
Ascent: 620 m
After being dormant for 9,000 years, Chaiten volcano erupted spectacularly in 2008, causing the evacuation of over 4,000 people. An ash column was sent 17 km into the air and completely blanketed the nearby town of Chaiten. The last eruption was as recent as 2011, but that doesn't stop dozens of people hiking up its slopes every day (me included).
Looking at the elevation profile, I knew it was going to be a short (2.5 km) but incredibly steep (over 600 m) hike. The first 500 metres were along a gentle, well-maintained path through a frosty forest filled with a variety of birds. Over the next kilometre, the gradient increased until it was averaging over 30%. Stairs cut into the earth helped enormously, although there were a few knee-high steps that tested my strength. At the halfway point I had only ticked off a third of the ascent. It wasn't going to get any easier.
In the last 500 metres, I emerged from the forest and passed a series of viewpoints of the valley behind me. Every one of them showed a nearby mountain range, a tiny amount of snow, a faraway lake and a twisting river, with an almost cloudless sky overhead. From here, there were fewer steps and more loose gravel, though the presence of rope handrails was greatly appreciated (especially for the descent).
At the top, the trail ran along the rim on one side of the volcano, from where we could see the true peak well above us on the opposite side. Tiny puffs of smoke were being emitted from several vents, making me wonder just how active the volcano currently was. In the centre was a slimy green lake, with clear reflections of the surrounding slopes. Other than a couple of birds chirping it was absolutely silent - there wasn't even a breath of wind. While it wasn't the most exciting volcano going around, I enjoyed the trek and the view nonetheless.
Cascadas Escondidas
Distance: 3.9 km
Hiking Time: 1:25 hr
Ascent: 270 m
Cascadas Escondidas was another short hike that was deceptively difficult. The trail climbed up through a forest that could only be described as enchanted, although this was not captured at all in the photos. Lichen and moss covered the trunks and branches, sunlight filtered through the dense canopy, and a narrow, gushing river ran beside us. The terrain changed continuously and included rocks, mud, roots, steps, wooden boardwalks and ladders, a few with missing rungs and handrails. Some parts were wet. All of it was a trip or slip hazard.
The lower falls spilled over the edge of a towering, U-shaped cliff, with green vegetation covering the tall vertical walls. On the viewing platform at the base of the falls, we were pelted with spray from the powerful force of the water. The cascades and the scenery were stunning, as though taken straight from a movie set. The limited view at the top of the lower falls weren't worth stopping for.
After another hefty climb we reached the higher falls, which were much wider as well as longer. This time our location was directly across from the waterfall, giving us an impressive but faraway view. Together these falls were easily the most scenic we had visited in Chile so far.
A little further down the road was a short, easy boardwalk known as Sendero Los Alerces. The path meandered through the forest out to 3,000-year-old alerce trees, one of the tallest species of tree in South America. There aren't many left in Chile and they are now a protected species. The trees were okay, nothing special, but the forest was lovely and tranquil for a quick half-hour walk.
Cascada Caleta Gonzalo
Distance: 3.7 km
Hiking Time: 1:21 hr
Ascent: 185 m
The trail to Cascada Caleta Gonzalo promised to be a 3 km trek with a steep uphill climb at the end. Danny sat this one out, so I took off alone along a brand new boardwalk that didn't have a single missing or broken rung. For the first kilometre I was mostly on this wooden walkway, securely scrambling up and down stairs through an open, bright green forest. Gradually, the boardwalk vanished and nature took over, but it was an easy walk over tree roots and patches of mud. When I was almost at the halfway mark the first viewpoint appeared, where all I could see was a terrible view of a crystal clear river and the tiniest of cascades. I continued on.
Twenty metres later a large wooden barricade appeared across the path, indicating that continuing on was not an option. My map said the trail carried on beyond this point, and I clearly hadn't seen any waterfalls yet. I stepped around the fence to see how far I could go. Suddenly, the route became the complete opposite of what I had just walked along. It had obviously been left to the elements for some time. The path was well and truly overgrown, the boardwalks were a rotting mess, spiderwebs repeatedly attached themselves to me, and I was continuously sliding along mossy rocks. I persevered, but it was taking an eternity to cover little distance. At times I could barely see the trail, and I wondered if I would be able to find my way back. When my legs became entangled in vines and I fell flat on my face, I knew it was time to turn around. (My ribs copped the full force of the fall, and they were agonisingly painful for the next few weeks).
The return hike was just as difficult - twice I had to use the breadcrumb feature on my watch to help me figure out which direction I had come from. Reaching the pristine boardwalks was a relief, and thankfully I managed to stay on my feet all the way back to the car.
